Robert Weil - Riesling Beerenauslese Kiedrich Grafenberg 2006 (0,375) - R.PARKER 93 PKT

O posiadłości:
"Absolutna sława, w parę lat wskoczył na niemiecki Parnas. Jego butelki z roczników 1996 i 1997 uchodzą za najlepsze we współczesnej historii Rheingau. Niektórzy jednak demonstracyjnie nim gardzą (również za to, że zaprzedał duszę: połowę udziału ma japoński holding Suntory); jeden z krytyków określił wina Weila jako "Lufthansa wines" (podawane są bowiem w biznesklasie). My Weila nie kochamy, ale jego talentowi nie da się zaprzeczyć. Wina bardzo dopracowane, technicznie perfekcyjne, w złym humorze można je nazwać bezdusznymi. Na każdym poziomie "Pradikat" wino mieszane oraz z Kiedricher Grafenberg; te ostatnie są bardzo potężne i warto dać im czas. Szczyt możliwości Weila mają ponoc ukazywać BA i TBA. Bardzo drogo." - Wina Europy 2009

O winie:
"A positively dusty as well as smoky overlay of botrytis marks the nose of the 2006 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Beerenauslese. Honey-drenched pears, glazed apricot, white raisin, and caramelized peach supply an almost overwhelming sense of botrytized richness, and for all of the wine’s creaminess of texture, citricity is pushing back against the honeyed tide, with the result that there is considerable liveliness in the finish, but also a bit of disharmony. A tactile sense of brown spice and citrus zest adds counterpoint to the fan-like, intense finish with its confectionary note of marzipan and its multiple manifestations of over-ripeness and botrytis. There was also a Grafenberg Beerenauslese Gold Capsule this vintage, but it was bottled very late and I did not have chance to taste it.
Wilhelm Weil relates that his team (twice the size he would have fielded only a few years ago) harvested for seven weeks without pause, 14-18 hours a day in order to capture the best possible quality from a year that set records in the Rheingau for total heat accumulation, but then of course threw inopportune rain in the vintner’s way. “The critical thing was to retain a reflection of our terroir, but to make use of the opportunity afforded by such precocious ripeness,” he observes. As in so many recent vintages, the Weil estate also benefited from some of the stoniest soils and highest, breeziest exposures in the Rheingau. 93/100 (David Schildknecht)" - The Wine Advocate, październik 2008

"Thick and glycerinlike in texture, sporting lemon candy, orange peel, dried tropical fruit and rum cake notes. Stays light on its feet and floats to a long finish, where the acidity leaves a mouthwatering aftertaste. Drink now through 2050. 94/100 (Bruce Sanderson)"- Wine Spectator 2008