Joseph Roty Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur Bas 2007
Punkty: Parker - 88/100; Stephen Tanzer - 89/100
Producent: Joseph Roty
Apelacja: AOC Gevrey Chambertin
Kraj: Francja
Kolor: Czerwone
Alkohol: 13 %
Pełna dojrzałość: 2011 - 2020
Szczep: Pinot Noir
Historia winiarskiej rodziny Roty w Gevrey sięga roku 1710. Posiadłość w obecnym kształcie została założona przez Josepha Roty w latach 60-tych ubiegłego wieku. Zmarły w roku 2008 Joseph Roty był postacią nietuzinkową - unikał dziennikarzy i ocen, nie angażował się w regionalne akcje promocyjne, wierzył jednak w wymowę swoich win. Te, produkowane z najwyższą starannością z najlepszych siedlisk i bardzo starych krzewów (70% winnic ma dzisiaj ponad 100 lat a ich naturalna wydajność nie przekracza 26 hl/ha) w istocie mówiły same za siebie. Dzisiaj posiadłościa kieruje madame Roty - wdowa po winiarzu oraz jej synowie; wina pozostają jednak w stylistyce tradycyjnej Burgundii i na nieodmiennie wysokim poziomie
"Aromas of framboise and plum distillate mingle with cocoa powder,
vanilla, and alkaline notes in the nose of the Roty 2007
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur, which gives off mixed messages, a rather
firm tannin extending to a slight hint of drying in the finish, but on
the other hand, suggestions of high-ripeness as well as rapidly evolving
but generous fruit. I would enjoy it now, tannin and all, though a
re-evaluation in another year might reveal that it has more potential
than I perceive now. 88/100.
Philippe Roty insists that because of his
rigorous canopy-management and green harvesting, plus a further late
summer crop-drop, rot was not the problem for him in 2008 (or for that
matter in 2007). But ripeness, he readily acknowledged, was. “In 2008,
we simply lacked 8 or 10 days of sunshine,” he concludes, admitting that
he harvested his lesser terroirs first (beginning September 23) and his
grand crus last. “Which would you want to make sure ripens, Bourgogne
or Charmes Chambertin?” he asked with a rhetorical laugh. This reversal
of normal procedure – when taken together with the cautious extraction
Roty felt committed to buy unripe pips – resulted in a 2008 collection
that is mildly disappointing in its lowest echelons and among village
Gevreys, though the Marsannays continued to offer considerable interest
for their modest prices, whereas they were decidedly weaker partners in
2007. (Since the 2008 hail in Marsannay hit largely in the Chenove
direction, it had little effect on Roty’s locations.) Tasting at the
press and halting pressing as soon as bitterness or under-ripeness were
detected was, says Roty, another critical factor in rendering satisfying
2008s. Malos – other than two stubborn whites on which Roty simply gave
up! – finished here on a normal schedule at the end of their first
winter, and thus in no way compromised his plan to as usual bottle the
wines in April. I tasted in late February a pre-assemblage set aside for
me two weeks in advance of my visit because in the meantime all of the
lots had been sulfured in barrel." - eRobertParker.com
"Medium red. Nuanced nose offers strawberry, minerals, violet and a whiff of meat. A step up in intensity over the preceding village wines from Gevrey, with mineral and soil tones dominating underlying red fruits. More firmly structured but this should also drink well within the next couple of years. 89/100" - Stephen Tanzer




